Shibīn al Qanāţir June 17th. Woke up to the sound of what sounded like particularly powerful purring – insistent purring, like someone had recorded a large cat and used it as an alarm on a clock. It was the birds – birds of Africa. I presume it was the sound of the doves, which were all over the trees in the backyard. There was golden slanting morning light on the grapes on the bower in the back-yard, whose leaves were and yellow and crimson – it was the end of autumn here in Africa. I stepped out into the yard, and the trees had mostly shed their leaves, except for the ones which were still turning colors. Thirty-eight degrees this morning, the beginning of my first full day in Africa.
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