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Bright Week Begins, Lent Ends.

12-Apr-09

I just concluded the most successful churchgoing period of my life, and while nothing really ends, Easter marks a turning-point and it is good to look back from here.

Lent is almost certainly supposed to be experienced together with Carnival.  The extremity of the one makes no sense without its opposite.  Carnival exhausts the body with stimulus – as it is supposed to be exhausted.  On Ash Wednesday this year at Mass I just cried and cried hearing the Miserere – I had been prepared.

For the first time in my life, I have had the benefit of a wonderful parish priest.  I went to Mass every Sunday, with the exception of the two Sundays when I was not here.  The masses were wonderful every time.  They were also brief, and since it is the nature of clerics to believe that the longer road is somehow better, let me note down some statistics about the masses to shame the tardipeds.  One Sunday I timed the Mass.

According to my watch, it began at 5:29 and forty seconds.  I think that is because my watch is twenty seconds behind.  I believe it started right on time.  No opening hymn.  At 5:30:05 we were at the Kyrie.  The first reading began at 5:31:00.  The psalm at 5:32:21.  The second reading at 5:33:28.  The Gospel started at 5:34:08.  The sermon began at 5:36:40.  If you arrived seven minutes late you missed all the readings.  The sermon lasted two minutes and fifty three seconds.  If you arrived ten minutes late you missed the whole Liturgy of the Word.  By 5:44:10 we were at the Sursum Corda, and I next looked at my watch at 5:56:01, when I had taken communion and was done with my personal prayers.  We were outside before 5:58.  The mass had taken less than twenty-eight minutes.  Even on Good Friday, known to Catholics as “the three hours,” we were done in an hour and a half.

There was no music, which is much, much, much better than bad music.  I cannot understand why this is not more generally understood.  No one cares if you can’t play the piano as long as you never sit in front of one.  And in fact the Mass greatly increases in dignity by the atmosphere of silence.  If you have Johann Sebastian Bach as your parish director of music, by all means, let him play.  But a living dog guards better than a dead lion.

The priest was remarkable.  He constantly referred to the fact that the Paschal Mystery is expressed in our lives, that the pattern of Death and Resurrection is life itself.  He preached Christ crucified as a way of seeing the hardship of our lives as a vehicle for spiritual growth.  He reminded us that Lent was supposed to be joyous – that’s the point.  Simplified but joyous.  He always said, “The Lord is with you” rather than putting it in the optative.  At first I was suspicious, but upon reflection I decided he was right (there is no verb in the Latin, so you must revert to theology).  Of course God is with you.  Your presence is always the question, not God’s presence.

Attendance at church was excellent – the Church was packed every Sunday – except on Holy Thursday, Good Friday, and the Easter Vigil.  This was a Sunday crowd, which I think has been the direction the hierarchy has pushed for quite a while, a kind of First Day Adventist church.

The reading of the Passion really should be altered.  I was not as offended by it as I normally am, but it is still theologically wrong.  The passions are read in parts: the priest reads the part of Jesus, the parishioners are the crowds, and two lectors read narrator and assorted other parts, the largest one being Peter.  The correct theology is that the Body of Christ – the parishioners – should read the part of Jesus.  The priest should read Peter.  Then you add a narrator and another character reader.  There is no one for whom this would not be spiritually better and truer.

The Easter Vigil was my favorite service, and after going to it I wondered why I would go to any other Easter service.  The readings are astonishing (though they left out the Valley of the Dry Bones this year).  I cried and cried at hearing the Exultet – it was so beautiful my memory really could not contain it.  An odd thing happened at the service.  The priest had some difficulty lighting the candle in the back of the church, and the people were left in a completely dark church (which was very beautiful).  All of a sudden, people started pulling out lighters and lit their own candles, and by the time the priest came up the nave chanting “Christ our light,” almost everyone had their candles lit already!  Well, I suppose if the priests can’t get their act together, that’s the way it will work.  But in general, the crowd at the Easter Vigil had no idea what was going on at the Mass – not standing for the Alleluia, not knowing to sit and so forth.  I was not sure why this was so only at this one service.  There was a litany, which was amazing.  No babies cried during that – the chanting is so mesmerizing.

Last year, for personal reasons, I did not attend the Resurrection Masses.  To celebrate them would have been an emotional lie.  This year, however, I was able to celebrate again.  And I am so happy!

The Crossing of the Red Sea.

12-Apr-09

There is a lot of narrative in the Scriptures, but the most satisfying and important readings of it will always be spiritual.  One way to do this is simply to make all the characters internal.  As I heard the reading of the Crossing of the Red Sea last night, I saw it this way: Moses and Israelites, Pharaoh and his riders are all within.  As you leave one part of your life and journey to the next, what crosses and what gets left behind?  What part can sustain something like eternal life, and what gets covered by the waters and flows back into the ooze?  Many of the most glittery things, the pomp and the pride, do not make it, “his chariots and his charioteers.”  The pilgrims arriving from the far shore in Dante’s Purgatory sing the Psalm “In Exitu Israel de Aegypto“.

My Favorite Vigil Reading.

11-Apr-09

“The hand of the Lord was upon me, and carried me out in the spirit of the Lord, and set me down in the midst of the valley which was full of bones. And caused me to pass by them round about: and, behold, there were very many bones in the open valley; and lo, they were very dry. And he said unto me “Son of man, can these bones live? And I answered, O Lord God, thou knowest. Again he said unto me, Prophesy upon these bones, and say unto them, O ye dry bones, hear the word of the Lord. Thus saith the Lord God unto these bones; behold, I will cause breath to enter into you, and ye shall live: And I will lay sinews upon you, and will bring up flesh upon you, and cover you with skin, and put breath in you, and ye shall live; and ye shall know that I am the Lord. So I prophesied as I was commanded: and as I prophesied, there was a noise, and behold a shaking, and the bones came together, bone to his bone, And when I beheld, lo, the sinews and the flesh came up upon them, and the skin covered them above: but there was no breath in them. Then he said unto me, “Prophesy unto the wind, prophesy, son of man, and say to the wind, Thus saith the Lord God, Come from the four winds, O breath, and breathe upon these slain, that they may live. So I prophesied as he commanded me, and the breath came into them, and they lived, and stood up upon their feet, an exceeding great army.”

Ah, Ezekiel.  Though I see that this is not the reading for tonight’s vigil.  Am I misremembering this?  I have this incredible recollection of hearing “Son of Man, can these bones live?” in the dark church of St. Vincent Ferrer one Saturday evening many years ago.  It wouldn’t surprise me, of course, if the hierarchs changed the reading.  For sure, however, the first three tonight are “Bible’s Greatest Hits” variety: Creation of the World, Sacrifice of Isaac, and the Crossing of the Red Sea.

Life in the Mountains.

11-Apr-09

An album of some of my best photos from life in the mountains is here.

I keep on thinking about going back home and being in the mountains again.  That nostalgia, coupled with a bit of writer’s block concerning the novel, is making me think about packing up and heading out.  We’ll see.  Next weekend I’ll take a little road trip, which may help me break through.  And of course tonight and tomorrow we have Easter.  I skipped Easter last year for personal reasons – I went to Holy Thursday and Good Friday services, but not the Resurrection masses.  This year is different.

A Holy Thursday Alliance.

10-Apr-09

On this night, in Rome, all the churches throw open their doors and stay open through most of the night, as places to pray.  It is quite an event in the city – many churches whose closed doors you passed many a time are open, inviting you to step in.  Usually only the altars are illuminated, often with candles, and the bright altars in the dark churches make you want to look inside.  People walk around in little groups, visiting twenty or thirty in an evening.  And everywhere you find people absorbed in intense prayer at the altar of repose.

I have long thought that American Christianity could have a night like this.  It is a kind of religious “take back the night.”  There are not enough Catholic churches in any American city to create the kind of density you have in Rome, but when you factor in other Christian denominations, there might even be more churches per square mile in American cities than anywhere else.  And the churches would offer far more variety than in Rome, and the night have more significance in terms of unity across denominations.  As far as getting participation, the Catholics have their altars which justify the practice, the Episcopalians are up for anything beautiful and ecumenical, and other Protestant denominations have ample Biblical encouragement to do this: “Tarry ye here, and watch with me.”  “Couldst not thou watch one hour?”  “Watch and pray, that ye enter not into temptation.”  This was, after all, the night he was betrayed.  I think all Christians can agree that especially honoring this night is appropriate.

It’s a different type of “witnessing,” and would attract a different group of people than the folks who like ten AM on Sundays.  Churches would have to find a few people to commit to being at the church in the evening – not a difficult task – and could stay open until, say, midnight (the intrepid can stay open all night, of course, if they want to).  The easiest thing would be to start in a neighborhood with a dense enough grouping of churches (in Manhattan somewhere, for instance), get them all signed up, and print out little leaflets with a map.  Then build from there.

It’s nearly 1 A.M. here.  But I’m going out now, to a chapel that stays open tonight here in New Orleans.  It’s beautiful – and a completely different way of experiencing a church and a city.

1976 years later.

10-Apr-09

A.J. Liebling and the Gret Stet.

08-Apr-09

In writing there are only two things, matter and treatment.  In Abbott Joseph Liebling’s The Earl of Louisiana we have matter so interesting that it still holds the attention fifty years later in itself, and treatment so virtuosic one is tempted to proclaim Liebling a literary figure rather than a journalist.

As far as matter goes, all you really need to know is that this book is about Louisiana.  Louisiana attracts nonfiction the way rotting trees attract fungus.  A visit or two to Louisiana easily takes the place of what is today called imagination.  Finding something interesting in Louisiana is like shooting a hanging possum with a shotgun.  All you need to do is get close enough to see it.

Liebling’s theme was the reelection campaign of Earl Long in 1959.  Earl was the brother of Huey, the populist who fought Standard Oil and scored political victory after political victory until he was assassinated in the Louisiana State Capitol building.  Huey had been considered a likely eventual candidate for president.  Liebling had met him twice:

Both times he received me in his pajamas, lying on top of his bed and scratching himself.  It was a routine he had made nationally famous in 1930, when, as Governor of Louisiana, he so received the official call of the commander of a German cruiser visiting New Orleans, causing the Weimar Republic to make diplomatic representations. (7-8)

His brother Earl was no less curious.  By spirit of the law he should not be allowed to run for reelection; Louisiana had a term-limit statute which prevented a governor from “succeeding himself.”  His answer to this was that he would resign on his last day in office, be succeeded by his lieutenant governor, and then succeed him.  It was unclear whether the state courts would permit this.  This, however, was the least interesting part of his reelection campaign.  He had just returned from a stint in an insane asylum, having been carted off from the floor of the legislature against his will and institutionalized (while governor).  Even then there was disagreement as to how much of this was medicine and how much politics.  When he was campaigning, he was thus introduced by one of his political attaches (Liebling uses italics and bold to represent elevated terraces of volume):

“When our beloved friend, the fine Governor of the Gret Stet of Loosiana, sent for me in his need… his condition had been so MISREPRESENTED … that people I knew said to me, ‘Don’t you go up there, Joe Sims.  That man is a hyena.  He’ll BITE YOU IN THE LAIG.’  But I went.  I went, … and before I could reach my friend, the armed guard had to open ten locked doors, and lock each one of ’em after us.  And theah, theah, I found the FINE Governor, of the GRET Stet of Loosiana… without SHOES, without a stitch of CLOTHES to put awn him, without a friend to counsel with.  And he was just as rational as he has ever been in his life, or as you see him here today.  He said, ‘JOE SIMS, WHERE THE HELL YOU BEEN?’” (34-5)

Liebling doesn’t let good material like this go to waste.  From this point on he calls upon the spelling Loosiana at need, or replaces it entirely with the term “the Gret Stet.”

As for Long’s actual mental condition, the operative description is “as rational as he has ever been in his life.”  Liebling describes him as wildly eccentric but probably compos mentis.  He was also shrewd, but more than anything he was endlessly colorful.  He once interrupted an assemblyman in the middle of a speech on the floor, asking him his name, and when he received it, he said, “Well, well, you look like a fine man.  Don’t let nothing run over you” (25).  In a huge crowd he rebuked the Louisiana representative of the Democratic National Committee (Long, like all Southern politicians at the time, was a Democrat) as a “common hoodlum” and said: “I knew your daddy, Camille Gravel, and he was a fine man.  But you trying to make yourself a big man, and you nothing but a little pissant” (90).  Piss-ant is the local dialectical form of “peasant.”  One of his major opponents in the race for governor was DeLesseps “Chep” Morrison, the highbrow New Orleans mayor Liebling immortally describes as “halfway in appearance between Richard M. Nixon and John F. Kennedy” (and if you see a photo of him you will know why).  His name was pronounced “DELL-uh-SEPS.”  Long referred to him as “old Dellasoups.”  He finished second for governor in 1956.

“I hate to say this – I hate to boost old Dellasoups – but he’ll be second again…. I’d rather beat Morrison than eat any blackberry, huckleberry pie my mama ever made.  Oh, how I’m praying for that stump-wormer to get in there.  I want him to roll up them cuffs, and get out that little tuppy, and pull down them shades, and make himself up.” (26)

“Tuppy” is Louisienglish for “toupee.”  There is no evidence that the hair on his head got there any way but by growing from his scalp.  But Long enjoyed tweaking him for the punctiliousness of his self-presentation:

“I see Dellasoups has been elected one of the ten best-dressed men in America.  He has fifty-dollar neckties and four-hundred-dollar suits.  A four-hundred-dollar suit on old Uncle Earl would look like socks on a rooster.” (92)

Some more examples of Long’s oratory:

“Maybe some of you are here because you’ve never seen a man out of a nuthouse before,” the Governor said tolerantly.  “Maybe you want to see a man who has been stuck thirty-eight times with needles.  Oh, the first man stuck me right through the britches.  He didn’t get me in the fat part, either, and oh, how it hurt!  Maybe I lost a little weight, but you would have too.  Occasionally I say hell or damn, but if it had happened to you all, you’d say worse than that.  Christ on the Cross himself never suffered worse than poor old Earl.” (101)

“They snatched me out without even enough clothes on me to cover up a red bug… and a week after I arrived in Texas I was enjoying the same wardrobe.” (127)

“I’m glad to see so many of my fine Catholic friends here – they been so kind to me I sometimes say I consider myself forty percent Catholic and sixty percent Baptist” (this is a fairly accurate reflection of the composition of the electorate).  “But I’m in favor of every religion with the possible exception of snake-chunking.  Anybody that so presumes on how he stands with Providence that he will let a snake bite him, I say he deserves what he’s got coming to him.”  The snake-chunkers, a small, fanatic cult, do not believe in voting. (93)

As is so often the case in Louisiana, Liebling merely has to describe what happens in order to make it ridiculous:

“And first,” he [Long] said, “I want to introduce to you the man I have selected to serve under me as Lieutenant Governor during my next term of office – a fine Frenchman, a fine Catholic, the father of twenty-three children, Mr. Oscar Guidry.” … Mr. Guidry, a short, stocky man who reminded me of a muscular owl, arose from his chair … he appeared embarrassed, and he whispered rapidly to Uncle Earl.
“Oscar says he has only fourteen children,” the Governor announced.  “But that’s a good beginnin’.”
Mr. Guidry whispered again, agitated, and Earl said, “But he is a member of a family of twenty-three brothers and sisters.” He turned away, as if washing his hands of the whole affair, and sat down.
Mr. Guidry, throwing back his head and clasping his hands in front of him, as if about to intone the “Marseillaise,” began with a rush, sounding all his aitches: “I am honored to be associated with the Gret Governeur of the Gret Stet on his tiquette.  Those who have conspired against him, fearing to shoot him with a pistol-ball…” and he was off, but Earl, seated directly behind him, was mugging and catching flies, monopolizing attention like an old vaudeville star cast in a play with a gang of method actors.  Pulling his chair slightly out of line, he crossed his legs and turned his profile to the audience, first plucking his sleeves, which came down about as far as his thumbnails, then, when he had disengaged his hands, picking his nose while he looked over at Alick’s leading hotel… He stared at it as if it contained some absorbing riddle.  When he had finished with his nose, he began to bathe his face, his temples, and the back of his neck with Coca-cola from the cold bottle, sloshing it on like iced cologne.
“Cool yourself off, Earl,” a voice piped up from the crowd, and the Governor shouted back, “I’m a red-hot poppa.” (98-9)

You can understand why “large tears appeared in the lovely violet eyes of my beautiful blond dinner partner” (another one of Liebling’s great brief sketches) as she considered the sorry situation of the Gret Stet:

“I shivah when I think of what you are going to write about us,” she said, “having a man like Earl Long for Govunuh of the State of Loosiana.  Oh, please tell the fine people up North that we ahnt all like that!  There ah fine, decent people in the State of Loosiana, just as there ah in New York and Chicago.” (116)

Yet after a brief time with him, Liebling calls him “my favorite American statesman” and “the most effective civil rights politician in the South.”  Another contestant in the primary was the segregationist Willie Rainach.  Long attempted to prevent segregationists from purging the voting rolls of blacks:

“You got to recognize that niggers is human beings! … There’s no longer slavery!” Long shouted at Rainach.  “There wasn’t but two people in Winn parish that was able to own slaves – one was my grandpa, the other was my uncle – and when they were freed, they stayed on” (here his voice went tenor and sentimental, then dropped again) “and two of those fine old colored women more or less died in my Christian mother’s arms – Black Alice and Aunt Rose.”  He sounded like a blend of David Warfield and Morton Downey.  “To keep fine, honorable grayheaded men and women off the registration rolls, some of whom have been voting as much as sixty or sixty-five years – I plead with you in all candor.  I’m a candidate for Governor.  If it hurts me, it will just have to hurt.”   He didn’t believe it would hurt, but it did.  In any case, he was taking a chance, which put him in a class by himself among Southern public men. (30)

One of Liebling’s contacts gives him this invaluable story about the Longs’ curious method of improving the lives of blacks in Louisiana:

“Earl is like Huey on Negroes,” Tom said.  “When the new Charity Hospital was built here, some Negro politicians came to Huey and said it was a shame there were no Negro nurses, when more than half the patients were colored.  Huey said he’d fix it for them, but they wouldn’t like his method.  He went around to visit the hospital and pretended to be surprised when he found white nurses waiting on colored men.  He blew high as a buzzard can fly, saying it wasn’t fit for white women to be so humiliated.  It was the most racist talk you ever heard, but the result was he got the white nurses out and the colored nurses in, and they’ve had the jobs ever since.” (23)

If you want a textbook case of compromising ideals but achieving objectives, look no further than the Longs.

As good a story as the Longs make, they are merely a small portion of the endlessly interesting Gret Stet, and Liebling’s portrait of it is still extraordinarily useful today, despite half a century of change.  He gets a New Orleanian to explain it thus:

“It’s the most complex state in the South…. In just about every one of the others you have the same battle between the poor-to-middling farmers on the poor lands – generally in the hills – that didn’t justify an investment in slaves before the war, and the descendants of the rich planters on the rich lands, who held slaves by the dozen to the gross…. We had that same basic conflict, and it lasted longer than anywhere else, for reasons I’m going to give, but in addition, we have a lot that are all our own.  In the other states it was just between poor Anglo-Saxon Protestant whites and rich Anglo-Saxon Protestant whites.  But here we got poor French Catholic whites and poor Anglo-Saxon whites and rich French Catholic whites and rich Anglo-Saxon Protestant whites…. And there’s always been another problem in Louisiana that no other Southern state has.  There are other large collections of people living close together in the South, but they are not big cities, just overgrown country towns like Atlanta.  They may have corruption, but not sophistication.  They lack the urban psychology, like ancient Athens, that is different, hostile, and superior, and the countryman resents and distrusts.  So you get a split along another line – you got not only poor rural French Catholic, rich rural white Protestant, rich rural French Catholic, and poor rural white Protestant, but poor urban Catholic, not exclusively French, rich urban Catholic, poor urban Protestant (mainly Negro) and rich urban Protestant.  Making out a ticket is tricky.” (83-4)

Blacks at this time were mostly prevented from voting, and so play a small role in this map of constituencies.  But race relations were one of Liebling’s interests and he spends a good deal of time discussing segregation, equality, the integration of schools, and the like.  Another large factor which he analyzes in excellent detail is the oil industry – Louisiana is one of the largest energy-producing states in the country.  Politics, eccentricity, race, and oil – an American jambalaya, no doubt.

Liebling’s treatment is virtuosic throughout.  You are always aware as you read that you are in the hands of a master (at the time of writing, Liebling was two years away from his death after a lifetime as a correspondent).  You have tour-de-force descriptions all around:

Jim Comiskey’s headquarters was a one-story clapboard building with a store front.  Inside, there was a web of junk around the walls: ladders, lathes, Coke bottles, paint cans, ruptured Venetian blinds, tangles of electric wires, a water cooler, a clothesline with clothespins and wire coat hangers, all these objects except the clothesline looking as if they had been simply kicked against the walls to clear a space in the middle of the room (61).

Brother Larry was out on the loading platform, squatting on a kitchen chair, like a great, wise, sun-freckled toad, an old straw hat down over his eyes, his fat red arms akimbo as he watched the outgoing loads of lovely liquor… (58)

Liebling’s greatest skill is his mastery of simile.  It is his signature technique.  Hardly a page goes by without one.  Frequently they draw on special knowledge not available to all, and occasionally they go flat, but taken as a whole they are superb.  The simile is the superior man’s technique, and behind it is always the implication “this is nothing new to me; I have seen something like it.”  It comes across as urbane and even a bit snide, precisely as you want a city-slicker to write about rural politics.  And the imaginative leaps good similes require make them entertaining the way trapeze artists are entertaining.

We climbed into Tom’s battered station wagon and raced out to where
the Comiskey Brothers’ sheds and loading platforms lay under a sun
like the Sahara’s.  The heat bounced visibly off the concrete like a
rubber ball. (58)

Describing one of the poorer sections of New Orleans: “it was like a cross between Paterson, N.J. and Port-au-Prince” (61).  He describes another political Long, but a quiescent one, as “Samson with a store haircut” (251).  At his best, Liebling uses the simile to cap off a description the way Shakespeare uses a rhyming couplet to send a villain offstage:

The distance from New Orleans to Alexandria is about 190 miles.  The first 90 miles, from New Orleans to Baton Rouge, are on a throughway, a straight, fast road on the east side of the Mississippi, far enough back from the back to avoid meanders, and high enough over the marshes to obviate bridges.  There is nothing worth a long look.  The bayous parallel the road on either side like stagnant, weed-strangled ditches, but their life is discreetly subsurface – snapping turtles, garfish, water moccasins and alligators.  The mammals are water rats and muskrats and nutria, a third kind of rat.  The nutria, particularly ferocious, is expropriating the other rats.  Bird life, on the day we drove through, was a patrol of turkey buzzards looking down for rat cadavers.  There pressed down on the landscape a smell like water that householders have inadvertently left flowers in while they went off for a summer holiday.  (82-3)

He follows this up with: “It was an ideal setting for talk about politics.”

At times you are amazed by how quickly a professional writer can extricate himself from a potential verbal knot.  “He would boast of free schoolbooks, which we had had in New York since before he was born, and good roads, which ditto” (8).  That sentence would be very difficult to finish without that “ditto,” which is an iffy word in formal composition.  But Liebling has the bravado to make it come off.  He even allows some space for a stylistic appreciation of Long himself:

Mrs. Dixon, handsome, stable and strong, has a firm, serene personality.  She is the kind of woman motherless drunks turn to instinctively to tell their troubles with their wives.  “Earl is funniest man in the world,” she said over her shoulder as she drove…. He has a style of his own – he’s a poet.  He said he was so groggy when he got off the plane that took him to Houston that he felt ‘like a muley bull coming out of a dipping vat.’  I don’t know why it should, but the ‘muley’ makes that line sound a hundred times funnier.  It just means without horns.” (121-2)

Long lost the election, for a host of reasons which Liebling thoroughly analyzes, particularly race (the ultimate victor, Jim Davis, allied himself with the segregationists very strongly and ran on opposing the Federally enforced school desegregation).  Louisiana was entering the tumult of the 1960s with the rest of the country.

All in all, this is tour-de-force writing, immersed in the lovely stinking rot of life in the place where it is loveliest and stinks the most, the Gret Stet of Loosiana.

I would like to close this with the bit of the book which I felt was most precious, a fragment of Long’s oratory Liebling records which reads like a Russian peasant’s Christian fable filtered through the worldview of American shopkeeper capitalism.  It also captures, in brief span, the economic resentment the underclass have for the pittance charity of the wealthy.  It is truly a little gem and deserves wider currency.

“We got the finest roads, finest schools, finest hospitals in the country – yet there are rich people who complain.  They are so tight you can hear ’em squeak when they walk.  They wouldn’t give a nickel to see an earthquake.  They sit there swallowin’ hundred-dollar bills like a bullfrog swallows minnows – if you chunked them as many as they want they’d bust.”
“Amen, Earl,” the old man said.  “God have mercy on the poor people.”
“Of course, I know many fine rich people,” the Governor said, perhaps thinking of his campaign contributors.  “But the most of them are like a rich old feller I knew down in Plaquemines Parish, who died one night and never done nobody no good in his life, and yet, when the Devil come to get him, he took an appeal to St. Peter.
“‘I done some good things on earth,’ he said.  ‘Once, on a cold day in about 1913, I gave a blind man a nickel.’  St. Peter looked through all the records, and at last, on page four hundred and seventy-one, he found the entry.  ‘That ain’t enough to make up for a misspent life,’ he said.  ‘But wait,’ the rich man says.  ‘Now I remember, in 1922 I give five cents to a poor widow woman that had no carfare.’  St. Peter’s clerk checked the book again, and on page thirteen hundred and seventy-one, after pages and pages of how this old stump-wormer loan-sharked the poor, he found the record of that nickel.
“‘That ain’t neither enough,’ St. Peter said.  But the mean old thing yelled, ‘Don’t sentence me yet.  In about 1931 I give a nickel to the Red Cross.’  The clerk found that entry, too.  So he said to St. Peter, ‘Your honor, what are we going to do with him?’”
The crowd hung on Uncle Earl’s lips the way the bugs hovered in the light.
“You know what St. Peter said?” the Governor, the only one in the courthouse square who knew the answer, asked.  There was, naturally, no reply.
“He said: ‘Give him back his fifteen cents and tell him to go to Hell.’” (96-7)

One country.

06-Apr-09

Just back from five days in Wyoming.  It was completely shocking.  It snowed the whole time (the old Wyoming joke is “If summer falls on a weekend this year, we’ll go to the park and have a picnic”).  I was building snowmen just a few days after hanging out with alligators and sleeping with the window open.  I hadn’t seen a rock since Stone Mountain in Georgia, and in Wyoming there was hardly anything else.  I was immersed in verdure in New Orleans, and in Wyoming there was not a single green leaf.  Amazing that this is one country, as if England and Jordan were parts of the same thing (which, I guess, when England was playing the role we now play, it was).  And to top it all off, it was a Latin Immersion Weekend for Wyoming Catholic College which brought me there.  It was forty people speaking Latin for the whole weekend.  I tell you, the things you find in this country.  It’s overwhelming.

Rock, snow, cedars.

06-Apr-09

Red Canyon, near Lander, Wyoming.

A Visit to Barataria Preserve, Lafitte National Historical Park.

30-Mar-09

This afternoon I went with a friend to the swamp directly south of New Orleans, the Barataria Preserve, an arm of the “Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve.”  The Barataria area is a nature park, but its place in the larger historical context is interesting and I’ll note it briefly: Jean Lafitte (he has a nearby town named after him called “Gene Lafeet,” but the man himself is generally given the honor of Francophone pronunciation), was an 18th-19th century pirate who lived in the swamp south of New Orleans; during the War of 1812, he helped Andrew Jackson defend the city against the invading British (one of the few American victories during the war) and became a local hero.

The Preserve offers something of an idea of the landscape Lafitte lived in.  It’s easy to see how he managed to carve out a buccaneer’s life within twenty miles of what was one of North America’s wealthiest cities.  The swamp is nearly impenetrable: accessible only by flat-bottomed boats (in small parties), it extends without notable landmarks for dozens of miles, and was completely unmapped (and was in a certain sense unmappable).  A few knowledgeable men could defend it nearly indefinitely, as the swamp provided food, water, timber, clothing (the Louisiana swamps were and still are the best furtrapping land in America), and cover.  What is more, the swamp ultimately communicates directly with the Gulf, and Lafitte could intercept ships or smuggle goods past the Customs Houses of New Orleans.

When you think swamp, this is pretty much it.

When you think swamp, this is pretty much it.

This was my first visit.  It had not been high on my list of things to do for several reasons.  First of all, although it is part of the National Park system (which usually indicates something fairly remarkable), it does not have the name and draw of a place like the Everglades.  Second, although I know swamps hold a tremendous amount of life, I’d be afraid the animals would be someplace far away and inaccessible, and I’d end up staring at some trees and duckweed and then go home.

The experience of Lafitte was completely different.  It knocked my socks off.  First of all, let’s start with the charismatic megafauna, which everyone knows are necessary for a satisfying nature experience (a grand view can obviate this necessity).  Lafitte has alligators, those most amazing cousins of the dinosaurs.  At first my fears of being far away from the interesting parts of the swamp was fulfilled: my friend and I walked the length of the boardwalk and didn’t see one (a great disappointment).  But on our way back over the same route, we saw seven.  They were moving a bit more, and our eyes were better.

The beauty and horror of an alligator in its native environment can be barely be described.  None of them felt threatening, but they were not timid the way most wild animals are: a small one, which posed no danger to us, swam up within eight feet of our toes on the boardwalk (which was only a few inches above the surface of the water and not at all protected): it was shocking that he was not afraid of us.  He had the fearlessness of a creature at the top of the food chain.  And the alligators were hungry, still recently awakened from their winter torpor.  If you threw a stick into the water, they would swim right to it to investigate.  One crunched the stick into bits just to make sure.  They were astonishing to watch: long legs (surprisingly so), long powerful tails, huge webbed feet showing up clear in the pellucid yellow water, and those eyes of patient malice, or rather, perfect self-interest.

But that wasn’t all we saw: two rabbits (one heading right for an alligator on the shore for awhile, but he turned aside and averted his “Wild Planet” moment), garter snakes, several lizards, green tree frogs, bull frogs galore, birds to give the place the semblance of the bird house at the zoo (unsourced squawks and songs), two water moccasins (also fearless, and hence not pleasant to be around), water teeming with some kind of guppie-related mosquitofish, squirrels, diving beetles, garfish, the most beautiful dragonflies you can imagine, even a skink.

Mottled gar.

Mottled gar.

This was in the early afternoon, which is the least active time of day for animal life.  I can hardly imagine what the place would be like at twilight – terrifying, most likely.  And an evening swim would be courting almost certain death.  This is a strange fact to consider: that certain behaviors, not harmful to any other thing, will cause other creatures to kill you, as dropping a stone will cause it to fall.

This was a gorgeous crisp spring day, all blue skies and dry air.  The preserve must be less inviting during the heat of the summer – thankfully, there were almost no mosquitos today, though they have been in the air for weeks in the city – and during the winter, the alligators are not active.  But in good conditions, this place is a must see when in New Orleans with a vehicle.

What a place to botanize!

What a place to botanize!

And the basis for all the animal life is the amazing swamp vegetation.  The trail runs from hardwood forest on fairly solid ground – mostly oak, red maple, and sweet gum – through shallow swamp of cypress and sour gum (tupelo) – into open swamp grassland.  I was far enough away from New York to see the Darwinian variations on the same basic stock of vegetation: to see strange swamp dogwoods and oaks, or the unusual local leaf-shape on the (annoyingly ubiquitous) poison ivy, or the fat butts on the tupelo trees.  Some species look almost the same, and they astonish you even more: the red maple, a dominant species on Wildcat Mountain in the Catskills, can be found here growing in two feet of standing subtropical water, and looks pretty much the same.  And of course, toss in the irises and waterlilies and all those lovely things.

The crazy squirrel.

The crazy squirrel.

Of course there were also the little quirks, like the crazy squirrel on the path, who has gotten a reputation on the preserve.  He hangs around on the boardwalk, posing for pictures.  He was not dying, as the picture might indicate.  When I whipped out my camera he leaped onto the railing and splayed himself out as you see, as if to say, “Take a picture of me chillin’.”  Naturally, we feared rabies and mange, and tried to give him a bit of space.

The swamp was accessed by boardwalks, which were generally in excellent condition.  They were flooded at one point, and it was necessary to take off our shoes and walk through the water.  Of course, I’m hoping I don’t get cholera from the crossing.  I already checked for leeches.

All in all, a fantastic day with the spirit of Jean Lafitte in the life-loving swamps.  But there is a back story to this.  This is precisely the kind of “wetland” that Louisiana is losing, and the area around Lafitte is probably the single most affected wetland-loss area in America.  All the area directly south of New Orleans is turning into ocean, which would make the city completely indefensible during hurricanes (a far more powerful adversary than the British, pace Lafitte and Jackson).  Lafitte Preserve is predicted to have no more than fifty years of existence left, unless something is done to arrest the erosion there.  Local sanitation departments dump Christmas trees in the swamps now, but my friend informed me, “Nothing human beings can do to truck in sediment can possibly save an area of this size from eroding.  The only hope is an Army Corps diversionary project in order to bring river sediment here.  Otherwise, this place is doomed.”  He tells me the Corps is working on it, as they are now aware that New Orleans cannot be saved without the wetlands of Lafitte.